Robin Hood’s Bay // Our way to do it
There are places on the Yorkshire Coast that need very little introduction, and Robin Hood’s Bay is one of them.
A jumble of old cottages, narrow passageways and steep stone streets tumble down towards the sea, with the Cleveland Way passing straight through the village.
It’s around 25 minutes from The Lodge, and it's somewhere we send guests again and again. But rather than driving straight into Robin Hood’s Bay, there’s another way we particularly like to arrive.
Low tide on the walk towards Robin Hood’s Bay, with rock pools, exposed shoreline and the cliffs beyond.
INSIDER TIP >>
Walk in along the beach. Check the tide times first. This bit is important.
When the tide allows, park at Stoupe Bank Farm and make your way down towards the coast, then walk north along the beach towards Robin Hood’s Bay.
It’s a completely different way to arrive. Instead of starting amongst the crowds at the top of the village, you approach from the shoreline with the cliffs alongside you and Robin Hood’s Bay gradually appearing ahead.
About halfway along you'll reach Boggle Hole, a little cove tucked beneath the cliffs.
Stop at the Quarterdeck café at YHA Boggle Hole for coffee, cake or something to eat before carrying on along the beach towards the Bay. The café sits right by the shoreline and is one of those places we'd recommend even if you weren't already passing it.
Do not attempt the beach route without checking the tide. The sea reaches the cliffs in places and can cut off access. If the tide isn't suitable, use the Cleveland Way on the clifftop instead.
Wander the old village //
Once you reach Robin Hood’s Bay, don't be in too much of a hurry to get anywhere.
The narrow lanes, steps and little passageways — or ginnels — are half the reason to visit. Leave the main street when something catches your eye and see where you end up.
The village has a long association with smuggling, and when you're wandering between tightly packed cottages and disappearing down tiny alleyways, it's not difficult to imagine why.
Eventually, find your way down to The Dock, where the village meets the sea.
A pint in the Bay //
There are plenty of places to stop, but for a proper pub we'd choose one of two.
The Bay Hotel is difficult to beat for location. It sits right at the bottom of the village overlooking the sea and marks the end of Wainwright's Coast to Coast walk. It's the one for a pint with a view.
Then there's The Laurel Inn, halfway up the bank. Tiny, traditional and full of character, it's much more about the pub itself than the view. CAMRA describes it as one of the Bay's smallest and quirkiest pubs, which is essentially its charm.
Our answer? The Bay Hotel when the sun is shining; The Laurel when you want somewhere cosy.
The Bay Hotel at the bottom of Robin Hood’s Bay, overlooking the sea and marking the end of the Coast to Coast walk.
One of Robin Hood’s Bay’s steep, narrow streets winding down through the old village towards the sea.
Looking down over the red-roofed cottages of Robin Hood’s Bay, with the beach, rocky shoreline and cliffs stretching along the coast (taken from the Cleveland Way National Trail).
Pizza by the sea //
If you're hungry before heading home, The Smugglers’ Inn is another favourite near the bottom of the village.
It's a little 17th-century pub and bistro just yards from the beach, serving homemade pizzas alongside local ales. There's also a cosy upstairs bar with original beams and a log burner.
Pizza and a pint after walking in along the beach is a pretty good way to finish the day.
Or stop on the way home //
If you're driving back towards The Lodge, another option is to leave Robin Hood’s Bay and stop at the Fylingdales Inn in Fylingthorpe.
That works particularly well if you've had enough of the busy little streets and fancy finishing somewhere slightly removed from the centre of the Bay. Recently renovated, it’s a gorgeous take on a traditional village pub, with beautifully considered interiors and a menu that leans more towards gastropub dining. It’s a good choice if you want to finish the day with a proper meal somewhere a little quieter than the centre of the Bay.
Then it's back through the North York Moors to Burniston.
THE DETAILS>>
Robin Hood’s Bay // North Yorkshire
From The Lodge // around 25 minutes by car
Best for // coastal walks · old streets · pubs · sea views
Allow // half a day — longer if walking in
OUR ROUTE // Check the tides → Stoupe Brow → walk the beach → Boggle Hole → coffee at the YHA → Robin Hood’s Bay → wander the old village → pint at The Bay or Laurel → pizza at Smugglers.
GOOD TO KNOW // If you're driving directly to Robin Hood’s Bay instead, park at the top of the village. There is no public parking in the lower old village, and the hill is very steep.
